Whether you've decided to re-key an entry door by swapping out an exterior door knob or replace interior knobs to freshen the decor, changing the hardware is essentially the same process. There's little difference between the construction of interior and exterior door hardware, although the strength and quality of the material used to build the hardware will vary widely.
How Doorknobs Work
The visible parts of doorknobs are fairly simple. You see a knob or a lever on both sides of the door, a raised disk called the rose between the knob and the surface of the door, and a metal latch protruding from the edge. Turning the knob retracts the latch into a flat latch plate;and the latch engages with a matching metal strike plate on the door jamb when the door is closed. If the knob includes a lock, there is a keyhole on the outside and some form of lever on the inside to engage the lock.
The parts inside the doorknob have much more variety. Consumer-grade exterior locks only differ from interior locking knobs by being weatherproof and somewhat more sturdy. Security of these locks should be enhanced by installing a deadbolt. Cylinder locks provide additional security but are more difficult to install and replace. Regardless of the style, the working parts mount inside a large hole with a standard diameter of 2-1/8” that's bored through the door, while the latch is connected through a long hole drilled into the space from the door's edge. The inner and outer knobs connect with a spindle through the middle and a pair of screws. When you turn either knob, the spindle rotates and retracts the latch. When you release the handle, springs return the latch to its extended position.
Removing the Old Knob
1) Remove the screws holding the knobs together. For locking knobs, you may have to rotate the rose on the inside of the door, lining up holes in the rose with the screw heads.
2) When the screws are completely out, remove the knobs and roses on both sides. This will expose the interior workings.
3) Remove the screws from the latch plate on the door's edge, pull the latch bolt out through the edge. Fit the parts together and set aside to donate to an architectural salvage shop or recycling center for building materials.
Installing the New Knob
4) The distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole is called the backset. Two different backset distances are common: 2-⅛ and 2-¾ inches. The new knob must have the same as the old knob to keep the latch bolt centered in the space. Many knobs in stores are adjustable to fit either backset. Consult the packaging for instructions to adjust the backset if needed.
5) Push the new latch assembly through the hole in the side of the door with the curved or angled face of the bolt facing in the direction the door swings when closing. The new latch plate will likely be the same size as the old one, but if it's larger, enlarge the mortise with a wood chisel. TIP: Most of the time the screw holes will line up, but it helps to “tighten” the old holes by pushing a broken wood match or toothpick into each hole, coated with wood glue.
6) Allow the glue to dry before screwing the latch plate into the side of the door. Swing the door until nearly closed to ensure that the latch lines up with the strike plate and is at the right orientation.
7) One knob is usually fixed to a spindle that goes through the hole in the door and a matching hole in the latch. The knob with exposed screw holes always goes on the lock side, usually the inside Thread the spindle through the latch bolt, then press the rose against the face of the door. If you can still see the hole through the door, adjust the backset distance and repeat. The knob must be centered for the rose to completely cover the hole.
8) Place the second knob on the spindle and verify that the knobs are correctly oriented: a lock knob or lever belongs on the interior, while a keyhole or lock release hole belongs on the outside. The installation convention is to have the widest part of the keyhole up. Compare to the directions that came with the new knob, as needed.
9) Test the knob and lock function before you close the the door. If the new latch will engage the strike plate already installed on the jamb and the finish is correct, you can leave it in place. If the old strike plate has a different finish or is damaged or if the new latch doesn't engage, replace the strike plate. The mortise for the strike plate may need reshaping, as above. Old screw holes that will be re-used or are too close to new screw holes are best plugged with wood and glue as above.
10) Verify that the door closes smoothly and locking knobs lock securely.
NOTE: Replacing mortise locks (flat boxes fitted into the edge of the door; rare except in old buildings) or cylinder locks requires different techniques. Mortise locks especially may exceed the kills of a novice.
Friday, 30 May 2014
Simple Method to Determine the Radius of an Arch
An arc is a section of the outline, or circumference, of a circle. This common shape appears in many forms, like the arch of a bridge or the top of certain windows.
If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...
What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)
If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...
What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)
How To
1) Mark two points on the arc
2) Draw a line between the two points and measure the length. Call the length L.
3) Find the midpoint of the line, halfway between your two marks.
4) Measure the distance from the midpoint to the arc. Call this distance H.
5) Divide L by 2 and square the result,
6) Divide the answer by H and add H to the result.
7) Divide the answer by 2. The quotient is R, the radius of the curved arc.
If you need the diameter of the circle instead of the radius, the diameter is the radius times 2.
Example
An arch's measurements are L = 40 and H = 5
L / 2 = 20
20 * 20 = 400
400 / 5 = 80
80 + 5 = 85
85 / 2 = 42.5, the radius of the arch
the diameter = 85
Hint: the units (meters, feet, inches, miles) don't make any difference, as long as the units of H and L are the same. The units of the radius will be the same as H and L.
Simple Method to Determine the Radius of an Arch
An arc is a section of the outline, or circumference, of a circle. This common shape appears in many forms, like the arch of a bridge or the top of certain windows.
If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...
What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)
If you want to create a copy of an arc, you can either trace it or build one like it from another circle the same size. Tracing is easy, but if you want to build your own circle, you need to find the radius of that circle. If it's complete or nearly complete, it's not hard to find the center, and that will let you measure its radius and diameter. But if the arch is only one small segment of the whole circle, finding those values might seem hopeless. It's easier than it looks, though: all you need is a tape measure and a pencil. Well, maybe a calculator, too...
What You'll Need
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Calculator (optional)
Easy Method to Find the Center of a Circle
Circles have an unusual geometry: they are the most regular, most symmetrical shape possible; but because there are no corners, finding one's center is more harder than you might expect. To find the precise center of a square or rectangle, you only need to draw lines from the opposite corners: the center is the point where they cross. The trick to finding a circle's center is creating corners of your own and using them. For small circles, all you need is a piece of paper, book or some other object with a right-angle corner. If the circle is larger, a sheet of plywood or some other solid rectangle will do the trick.
What You'll Need
• A piece of paper large enough to reach across your circle
• Pencil
• Straightedge
Instructions
1) Lay the sheet of paper on the circle so that one corner just touches the circle's perimeter. Hold the paper firmly and use the pencil to mark the exact points where the two edges of the paper cross the circle's outline.
2) Connect the marks a ruler or other straightedge and draw a pencil line between them. Your line passes through the center.
3) Rotate the paper and lay it on the circle at a different angle.
4) Make the two new tick marks and connect them with another pencil line.
The circle's center is where the two lines cross.
Warning:
The corner you use must be a right angle or this exercise will not work.
What You'll Need
• A piece of paper large enough to reach across your circle
• Pencil
• Straightedge
Instructions
1) Lay the sheet of paper on the circle so that one corner just touches the circle's perimeter. Hold the paper firmly and use the pencil to mark the exact points where the two edges of the paper cross the circle's outline.
2) Connect the marks a ruler or other straightedge and draw a pencil line between them. Your line passes through the center.3) Rotate the paper and lay it on the circle at a different angle.
4) Make the two new tick marks and connect them with another pencil line.
The circle's center is where the two lines cross.
Warning:
The corner you use must be a right angle or this exercise will not work.
Lay Out a Square Corner with Just Two Tape Measures
Most builders know a simple geometry trick that makes it dirt simple to lay out a square corner for your patio, deck or other structure. All you need is a couple of tape measures. It’s all because of the Pythagorean Theorem and the 3-4-5 right triangle.
Skip the Explanation and go straight to the How to ==>
If you happened to sleep through class that day (or ditched school instead) you may not remember who Pythagoras was or what his “theorem” means to you. So let me refresh that vague memory.
The Pythagorean Theorem says that the sum of the squares on the sides of a right triangle are equal to the square of the hypotenuse.
So what? Well, that little bit of information has been put to use by builders and surveyors for centuries to lay out square corners. Here’s why: a “right triangle” is one that has a 90° or square corner, which is the gold standard for building. The hypotenuse is the long side, the one opposite the 90° corner. Old Pythagoras deduced that if you square the lengths of the two short sides and add the numbers together, the sum will be equal to the square of the length of the third side.
If you have a right triangle whose sides are 5” and 6”, you can figure out the length of the long side: 5 x 5 = 25, 6 x 6 = 36, and the sum is 61. The long side is 7.81025” long. The square root of 61 (according to my calculator
Eyes glazed over yet? Wondering how this helps builders? Well, there’s a special case when the two short sides of a triangle are 3” and 4” long. The squares are 3 x 3 = 9 and 4 x 4 = 16, so the long side has a length that is the square root of 25 – and that’s a simple “5.” Some builder figured out that they could use this relationship, commonly called a 3-4-5 right triangle, to lay their square corners. One interesting feature of a 3-4-5 triangle is that you can multiply the three numbers by any constant and the same relationship holds true, so the 6-8-10 and 9-12-15 triangles are also right triangles.
What all that means is that you can use this ancient relationship to define a square corner for any project that’s too big for a framing square.
And here’s how you do it:
What You’ll Need
• Three stakes
• Hammer
• Two tape measures
• Helper
• String
How to Lay Out a Square Corner
1) Define one corner and drive a stake at that point. This is Stake A.
2) Use one of your tape measures to measure exactly eight feet along one side of your structure. Drive a second stake at the eight-foot point. This is Stake B.
3) Hook tape measure #1 onto Stake A and tape measure #2 onto Stake B.
4) Extend tape measure #1 a bit more than six feet.
5) Extend tape measure #2 a bit more than ten feet.
6) Swing the two tapes back and forth until the six foot mark on #1 and the ten foot mark on #2 are touching. Have your helper drive Stake C at this point.
7) String lines connecting the two pair of stakes (A-B and A-C)
The line that connects Stakes A and C now forms a right angle with the line that connects Stakes A and B. It's as simple as that!
Skip the Explanation and go straight to the How to ==>
If you happened to sleep through class that day (or ditched school instead) you may not remember who Pythagoras was or what his “theorem” means to you. So let me refresh that vague memory.
The Pythagorean Theorem says that the sum of the squares on the sides of a right triangle are equal to the square of the hypotenuse.
So what? Well, that little bit of information has been put to use by builders and surveyors for centuries to lay out square corners. Here’s why: a “right triangle” is one that has a 90° or square corner, which is the gold standard for building. The hypotenuse is the long side, the one opposite the 90° corner. Old Pythagoras deduced that if you square the lengths of the two short sides and add the numbers together, the sum will be equal to the square of the length of the third side.
If you have a right triangle whose sides are 5” and 6”, you can figure out the length of the long side: 5 x 5 = 25, 6 x 6 = 36, and the sum is 61. The long side is 7.81025” long. The square root of 61 (according to my calculator
 | ||||
| A 3-4-5 right triangle whose square corner is defined by a framing square | . |
What all that means is that you can use this ancient relationship to define a square corner for any project that’s too big for a framing square.
And here’s how you do it:
What You’ll Need
• Three stakes
• Hammer
• Two tape measures
• Helper
• String
How to Lay Out a Square Corner
1) Define one corner and drive a stake at that point. This is Stake A.
2) Use one of your tape measures to measure exactly eight feet along one side of your structure. Drive a second stake at the eight-foot point. This is Stake B.
3) Hook tape measure #1 onto Stake A and tape measure #2 onto Stake B.
4) Extend tape measure #1 a bit more than six feet.
5) Extend tape measure #2 a bit more than ten feet.
6) Swing the two tapes back and forth until the six foot mark on #1 and the ten foot mark on #2 are touching. Have your helper drive Stake C at this point.
7) String lines connecting the two pair of stakes (A-B and A-C)
The line that connects Stakes A and C now forms a right angle with the line that connects Stakes A and B. It's as simple as that!
Be Your Own Fuel Economy Calculator
We're not here to talk about how improving gas mileage or to complain about the difference between EPA mileage estimates and what you really get. We may get to that some other time, but for now you'll have to look elsewhere.
This is a plain old arithmetic class that I'd like to think will help people calculate their own gas mileage (AKA "fuel economy" or "MPG"). It doesn't make sense to say that it costs $50 to fill your car's tank, because 1) the tank capacity isn't the same from vehicle to vehicle and 2) the distance since the last fill-up varies, too. This is - like I said - a tutorial:
Calculate Gas Mileage in Miles per Gallon.
Doing this is almost ridiculously easy in the era of trip odometers*. Here's how you do it:
1: Fill the gas tank, letting the pump run until it automatically shuts off. Don't top off the tank, because it adds to air pollution and wastes some of the gas you just bought.
2: Zero out your trip odometer. You'll find instructions in the owner's manual if you need them.
3: Drive until you need to fill the tank again. Repeat step 1, and get a receipt showing the number of gallons you've used.
4: Record or memorize the distance from the trip odometer.
OK, now you have two numbers: The distance you've gone and the number of gallons you burned doing it. To calculate fuel economy in MPG, divide that first number by the second.
MPG = distance traveled ÷ gallons consumed
The number is reported as "miles per gallon" (MPG) in the US.
Example
1) It took 21.7 gallons to fill your Escalade. You've driven 365.5 miles since your last fill-up. Your gas mileage is calculated using the formula
MPG = 365.5 ÷ 21.7
Your fuel economy = 16.8 MPG (miles per gallon)
2) It took 11.2 gallons to fill your Prius Sedan and it's been 501.1 miles since you last filled up. Your gas mileage can be calculated using the formula
MPG = 501.1 ÷ 11.2
Your fuel economy is 44.7 MPG (miles per gallon).
Since results vary with driving conditions, you should calculate your mileage over several fill-ups to get a good feeling for the fuel economy of your ride. We all tend to get lower mileage during our daily commutes than on long highway drives, which is why the EPA reports estimated City and Highway numbers.
What does this all mean? Well, the cost of filling the Escalade is about twice that of filling the Prius, but the hybrid's mileage is between two and three times that of the Caddy.
There: you don't have an excuse to express gas mileage in "dollars per fill-up" any more!
* If you don't have a trip odometer, don't despair: just jot your odometer mileage down on the receipt every time you fill up and do the subtraction. Feel free to use a calculator if you must.
This is a plain old arithmetic class that I'd like to think will help people calculate their own gas mileage (AKA "fuel economy" or "MPG"). It doesn't make sense to say that it costs $50 to fill your car's tank, because 1) the tank capacity isn't the same from vehicle to vehicle and 2) the distance since the last fill-up varies, too. This is - like I said - a tutorial:
Calculate Gas Mileage in Miles per Gallon.
Doing this is almost ridiculously easy in the era of trip odometers*. Here's how you do it:
1: Fill the gas tank, letting the pump run until it automatically shuts off. Don't top off the tank, because it adds to air pollution and wastes some of the gas you just bought.
2: Zero out your trip odometer. You'll find instructions in the owner's manual if you need them.
3: Drive until you need to fill the tank again. Repeat step 1, and get a receipt showing the number of gallons you've used.
4: Record or memorize the distance from the trip odometer.
OK, now you have two numbers: The distance you've gone and the number of gallons you burned doing it. To calculate fuel economy in MPG, divide that first number by the second.
MPG = distance traveled ÷ gallons consumed
The number is reported as "miles per gallon" (MPG) in the US.
Example
1) It took 21.7 gallons to fill your Escalade. You've driven 365.5 miles since your last fill-up. Your gas mileage is calculated using the formula
MPG = 365.5 ÷ 21.7
Your fuel economy = 16.8 MPG (miles per gallon)
2) It took 11.2 gallons to fill your Prius Sedan and it's been 501.1 miles since you last filled up. Your gas mileage can be calculated using the formula
MPG = 501.1 ÷ 11.2
Your fuel economy is 44.7 MPG (miles per gallon).
Since results vary with driving conditions, you should calculate your mileage over several fill-ups to get a good feeling for the fuel economy of your ride. We all tend to get lower mileage during our daily commutes than on long highway drives, which is why the EPA reports estimated City and Highway numbers.
What does this all mean? Well, the cost of filling the Escalade is about twice that of filling the Prius, but the hybrid's mileage is between two and three times that of the Caddy.
There: you don't have an excuse to express gas mileage in "dollars per fill-up" any more!
* If you don't have a trip odometer, don't despair: just jot your odometer mileage down on the receipt every time you fill up and do the subtraction. Feel free to use a calculator if you must.
Replace Valve Packing in a Hose Bibb 2014
Next to replacing the toilet flapper doohickey, the leaky faucet is probably the most common household plumbing repair. Kitchen and bathroom faucets come in an astonishing selection of styles and a bewildering array of valve types, but once you've gone through the repair process once (or twice), shutting down a leak with a new washer or a cartridge rebuild is actually pretty easy. That's for indoor faucets, however: those tough, utilitarian outdoor faucets (actual names, hose bibs or bibbs) are different, however. When one of them leaks, it may not be a worn-out washer: it might be the valve packing.
"The what?" you may ask.
Valve Packing
A hose bibb consists of a simple valve, usually brass, that screws into a molded metal body. To prevent leakage around the valve stem, bibbs are designed so that soft, waterproof material seals against the stem. This is what's called valve packing. When packing wears out, which it eventually does, the bibb starts leaking at the stem. Leaky packing is different from a worn-out washer, which allows water to leak out of the spout.
Valve packing comes in different types: you can fill the space with a felt washer or use some expensive, waterproof string. That string is either graphite-impregnated or made of polytetrafluorethane (PTFE), which you may know better by the trademark Teflon®. Real old-timers might recall using oakum for packing, which is little more than the fibers from rope with a little grease added to make it waterproof.
If you use a felt washer, you'll have to measure to determine the size needed. String-type packing is more versatile, since it fits any size stem; we'll do that for our project.
What you Need
• Screwdriver
• Adjustable wrench
• Replacement packing (graphite or teflon string)
• Replacement faucet handle (probably)
Steps
1 - Turn off the water to the hose bibb
2 - Use the screwdriver to remove the screw in the center of the faucet handle and pull off the handle. The skeleton-style ones usually break, so you'll probably need to replace this when you're done.
3 - Remove the bonnet nut with the adjustable wrench and then unscrew the valve to take it out of the body.
4 - Clean any leftover packing from the bonnet nut and the valve stem.
5 - Wrap packing string around the valve stem several times counterclockwise.
6 - Screw the valve stem back into the body and tighten down the bonnet nut
7 - Reinstall or replace the handle (you might want to get a replacement T-handle.
The bonnet nut will compress the wrapped packing string to form a tight seal. You'll probably need to tighten the nut some more after the first few uses
"The what?" you may ask.
A hose bibb consists of a simple valve, usually brass, that screws into a molded metal body. To prevent leakage around the valve stem, bibbs are designed so that soft, waterproof material seals against the stem. This is what's called valve packing. When packing wears out, which it eventually does, the bibb starts leaking at the stem. Leaky packing is different from a worn-out washer, which allows water to leak out of the spout.
Valve packing comes in different types: you can fill the space with a felt washer or use some expensive, waterproof string. That string is either graphite-impregnated or made of polytetrafluorethane (PTFE), which you may know better by the trademark Teflon®. Real old-timers might recall using oakum for packing, which is little more than the fibers from rope with a little grease added to make it waterproof.
If you use a felt washer, you'll have to measure to determine the size needed. String-type packing is more versatile, since it fits any size stem; we'll do that for our project.
What you Need
• Screwdriver
• Adjustable wrench
• Replacement packing (graphite or teflon string)
• Replacement faucet handle (probably)
Steps
1 - Turn off the water to the hose bibb
2 - Use the screwdriver to remove the screw in the center of the faucet handle and pull off the handle. The skeleton-style ones usually break, so you'll probably need to replace this when you're done.
3 - Remove the bonnet nut with the adjustable wrench and then unscrew the valve to take it out of the body.
4 - Clean any leftover packing from the bonnet nut and the valve stem.
5 - Wrap packing string around the valve stem several times counterclockwise.
6 - Screw the valve stem back into the body and tighten down the bonnet nut
7 - Reinstall or replace the handle (you might want to get a replacement T-handle.
The bonnet nut will compress the wrapped packing string to form a tight seal. You'll probably need to tighten the nut some more after the first few uses
Unstick Stuck Windows Tips
Unstick Stuck Windows
Old houses are special for their charm and character, but they also have special problems. An annoyance regularly encountered by people who buy or rent in old buildings is the stuck window. These windows stick closed for several reasons, but one common reason is that they've been painted shut. If you've found yourself battling stuck windows, here's some help to get fresh air back in your life.
Window Anatomy
Windows with panels that move up and down are called "sash windows." The panels, or sashes, move in channels that keep them from falling into the room or the back yard. The lower sash is held in place by thin strips of molding on either side called the inner stops.
Some sash windows are single-hung, meaning only the bottom sash moves. This is more common in houses with central air-conditioning. Older houses are more likely to have double-hung windows, where both top and bottom sashes move. If your top sash doesn't move, look at the inside of the frame: if there isn't a channel or groove to let the window slide, it isn't moving because it isn't supposed to. If there's a channel, you'll find two more molding strips that separate the channels for the sashes. These are called parting strips.
Many sashes are been frozen in place by paint that fills the spaces between the sashes and the molding. It's fairly easy to remove this paint if there aren't too many layers.
The Hammer and Putty Knife Solution
Landlords and maintenance people who don't have to live in a house aren't always careful about where they slap paint between tenants/owners. If you've moved into a new space that's actually pretty old, there's a chance that at least one window has been painted shut with paint that fills the space between the sashes and the trim.
Many do-it-yourself manuals say to tap a thin scraper or putty knife into the gaps filled with paint to break the seal. This works best if the paint is just one layer thick, and can definitely get you started on the road to usable widows. Tap gently, holding the putty knife parallel to the glass, and work all the way around the window including at the top edge where the lock is.
If the seal of old paint is two or more layers thick, you may need more power:
A Window Zipper
A fantastic little tool for breaking through multiple layers of paint is CRL's Red Devil Window Zipper. Saw-like teeth on a steel blade chew through old paint and pull it out of the groove, just what you need when a window has been painted shut multiple times. It's designed for hand use, so you don't need to bring a hammer, either. Slow and steady use is advisable, because the Window Zipper can gouge the frame if not used carefully. Don 't forget to check the outside joints as well as the inside for paint "seals."
Old houses are special for their charm and character, but they also have special problems. An annoyance regularly encountered by people who buy or rent in old buildings is the stuck window. These windows stick closed for several reasons, but one common reason is that they've been painted shut. If you've found yourself battling stuck windows, here's some help to get fresh air back in your life.
Window Anatomy
Windows with panels that move up and down are called "sash windows." The panels, or sashes, move in channels that keep them from falling into the room or the back yard. The lower sash is held in place by thin strips of molding on either side called the inner stops.
Many sashes are been frozen in place by paint that fills the spaces between the sashes and the molding. It's fairly easy to remove this paint if there aren't too many layers.
Landlords and maintenance people who don't have to live in a house aren't always careful about where they slap paint between tenants/owners. If you've moved into a new space that's actually pretty old, there's a chance that at least one window has been painted shut with paint that fills the space between the sashes and the trim.
Many do-it-yourself manuals say to tap a thin scraper or putty knife into the gaps filled with paint to break the seal. This works best if the paint is just one layer thick, and can definitely get you started on the road to usable widows. Tap gently, holding the putty knife parallel to the glass, and work all the way around the window including at the top edge where the lock is.
If the seal of old paint is two or more layers thick, you may need more power:
A fantastic little tool for breaking through multiple layers of paint is CRL's Red Devil Window Zipper. Saw-like teeth on a steel blade chew through old paint and pull it out of the groove, just what you need when a window has been painted shut multiple times. It's designed for hand use, so you don't need to bring a hammer, either. Slow and steady use is advisable, because the Window Zipper can gouge the frame if not used carefully. Don 't forget to check the outside joints as well as the inside for paint "seals."
What to Do When the Window Isn't Painted Shut
You'll need to assemble some tools for this procedure:
• a utility knife
• hammer
• putty knife
• sandpaper.
1) Carefully cut along the joint between the inner stop and the window casing with a sharp utility knife.
2) Slip the blade of a putty knife or thin scraper between the inner stop and the window casing. You may need to tap the handle gently with a hammer to get it started.
3) Gently pry the inner stop away from the casing with the putty knife. NOTE: some windows have screws holding the molding in place: remove the screws before prying.
4) Pull the inner stop completely free and set aside, nails intact. Remove the other inner stop. The window can now swing free on its sash cords.
5) Observe the stiles of the sticky sash: use a sandpaper block to remove swollen spots, drips of finish, etc. Inspect back, front, and sides of both stiles. Inspect the edges of the inner stop and parting stop for rough spots or other sticky areas, and sand smooth.
6) If the top sash is sticky, remove the parting strip. It is difficult, if not impossible, to remove the parting strip without destroying it. Keep a relatively intact piece so you can cut new strips. Repeat the sanding step, paying special attention to the outer, or blind stop.
7) Reassemble the sashes, parting strip, and stop. Break off a small piece of toothpick in the nail holes for the inner stop and re-insert the nails in their original holes. Re-finish the edge of the inner stop if necessary.
8) Rub a little paraffin or candle wax inside the channels for the sashes. This will lubricate them so the sashes will slide more easily.
That should do the trick for most sticky windows. If your window sticks because the building has settled and the window is no longer square, it's likely that none of this can help you. In that case, you'll probably need to replace the window entirely. You can square up a replacement window during installation.
Patch Holes in Subfloor (or Drywall)
As much as we adore our furry friends, sometimes they make a mess. One of the biggest messes any of our dogs ever made was the time she knocked over a lit floor lamp, which somehow managed to stay lit instead of shattering. It took some time, but the 150-watt bulb melted clear through the carpet and pad, eventually charring a perfectly circular three-inch hole in the subflooring of our upstairs. We came home to a house filled with smoke and a two Labradors cowering in the back yard – no flames, though, so no visit from the fire department.
So… how do you patch a hole in the floor? Well, here’s how I did it…
Tools and Materials
Utility knife
Square and pencil
Jig Saw
Scrap wood for braces
Scrap OSB for patch
Woodworkers glue
Deck or subflooring screws
Step 1 – Evaluate
The burned area was a circular area about 3” across, which (thankfully) didn’t involve a joist. The carpet and padding will obviously need to be patched, but first to patch that hole.
Step 2 – Clear a Space
I cut the carpet and padding back to form a square around 5” on a side, being careful not to cut across the carpet weave. It’d be a lot easier with shag, but my PO bought (cheap) berber for this room
Step 3 – Cut Away the Char
I cut a square just slightly larger than the outline of the charred area (you can still see some dark spots at the edges) with a jig saw. Now would be a good time to stick a shop vac in the hole to clean out the crumbs.
Step 4 – Cut Some Braces
I cut two strips an inch wide and maybe eight inches long from some scrap lumber. These will act as “fill-in” floor joists for a patch I’ll cut from a scrap of OSB.
Step 6 – Insert the Patch
I cut a patch to fit the hole from scrap OSB (you could also use plywood or other lumber) and drilled starter holes in the corners of the patch. I applied a bead of glue to each brace, and screwed the patch down securely. Just like that, the patch was done
We’ll get to the carpet repair some other time.
Parting Observations
• This obviously won’t work for large holes, and the technique is definitely unsuitable for visible patches. Since this hole was small and the patch will be hidden under a patch of carpet, though, it works well.
• This same technique is excellent for patching holes in drywall. You can use short pieces of lath for the backing braces and then tape and mud the seams afterward.
• A slick trick is to cut your patch first and then use it as a template to make the hole: the two will be almost exactly the same size and shape.
So… how do you patch a hole in the floor? Well, here’s how I did it…
Tools and Materials
Utility knife
Square and pencil
Jig Saw
Scrap wood for braces
Scrap OSB for patch
Woodworkers glue
Deck or subflooring screws
The burned area was a circular area about 3” across, which (thankfully) didn’t involve a joist. The carpet and padding will obviously need to be patched, but first to patch that hole.
I cut the carpet and padding back to form a square around 5” on a side, being careful not to cut across the carpet weave. It’d be a lot easier with shag, but my PO bought (cheap) berber for this room
Step 3 – Cut Away the Char
I cut a square just slightly larger than the outline of the charred area (you can still see some dark spots at the edges) with a jig saw. Now would be a good time to stick a shop vac in the hole to clean out the crumbs.
Step 4 – Cut Some Braces
I cut two strips an inch wide and maybe eight inches long from some scrap lumber. These will act as “fill-in” floor joists for a patch I’ll cut from a scrap of OSB.
Step 6 – Insert the Patch
I cut a patch to fit the hole from scrap OSB (you could also use plywood or other lumber) and drilled starter holes in the corners of the patch. I applied a bead of glue to each brace, and screwed the patch down securely. Just like that, the patch was done
We’ll get to the carpet repair some other time.
Parting Observations
• This obviously won’t work for large holes, and the technique is definitely unsuitable for visible patches. Since this hole was small and the patch will be hidden under a patch of carpet, though, it works well.
• This same technique is excellent for patching holes in drywall. You can use short pieces of lath for the backing braces and then tape and mud the seams afterward.
• A slick trick is to cut your patch first and then use it as a template to make the hole: the two will be almost exactly the same size and shape.
Remove Sag from a Gate
The toughest part of building a fence is almost always the gate. Adding a gate means additional posts and dealing with the hardware, and they usually require finicky measurements and additional planning. Worst of all, about forty-five minutes after you install them the darned things start to sag and warp. Well, at least my gates do.
The gate in the Houston house's back yard became unhinged during Hurricane Ike a few weeks before we moved in, and the previous owner did such a lousy repair job that I had to replace the replacement within a couple of years. The replacement gate fit fine and I did a good enough construction job that it doesn't sag, but the BigBox lumber I used to build it began to warp seemingly within minutes, causing a serious case of gaposis near the top. I decided that a set of eye bolts, some cable and a turnbuckle would straighten it out, so I returned to my local BigBox store where I'd bought the lumber (blue, not orange). There on the hardware aisle I found a National Zinc Anti-Sag Gate Kit (V-852) and brought it home.
The kit consists of a two zinc-plated steel support brackets that fit over opposite corners of the crosspieces plus screws to install them; several feet of 1/8-inch galvanized steel cable, plus a pair of galvanized steel rope clips (also called cable clamps); and a ¼" turnbuckle with hook-end bolts. The turnbuckle is aluminum and the bolts are zinc-plated steel.
Installation
1) Use the included screws to install one corner bracket at the hinge end of the top crosspiece and the other at the post end of the bottom horizontal. I did it the other way, since the gate didn't sag: it was warped outward at the top.
2) Open the turnbuckle as far as it will go and place a hook through the eye hole hole in the top bracket.
3) Make a smallish loop at one end of the cable and secure with a rope clamp. Place this loop on one of the hooks in the turnbuckle. If your turnbuckle has only one hook, thread the cable through the eye screw before you secure the loop.
4) Thread the other end of the cable through the eye-hole on the bottom bracket. Make a second loop and pull it as tight as possible, then secure it with another rope clamp.
5) Screw down the turnbuckle until the cable lifts the sag out of the gate or, as in my case, unwarps the warp.
The manufacturer says this kit can reach across a diagonal up to 7½ feet, which is about the size of a 5’ x 6’ gate. My gate is smaller (3’ x 6’) and I ended up with extra cable. If you have bolt cutters, you can trim this; otherwise it's fairly easy to ignore. The tools needed for installation were a cordless drill, a ratchet and 9/32” deep-well socket for the rope clips, and an adjustable wrench for the turnbuckle. In all it took about 30 minutes to install. One thing I didn't like about the kit is that the brackets are designed to fit crosspieces that are set on edge; mine are flat to match orientation of the fence rails. It's stayed secure for a couple of years; and the zinc-plated steel parts haven't shown any rust yet. In fact, I only recently tightened up the
turnbuckle to take out some fresh warp.
An anti-sag kit is an easy-to-install and economical solution for problem that's altogether too common. This or a similar kit is sold under several labels, such as the Stanley 76-0828 and the Ace Hardware 5299029. Some have an eye bolt instead of two hooks on the turnbuckle, but as long as the parts are zinc they're pretty much all the same.
The gate in the Houston house's back yard became unhinged during Hurricane Ike a few weeks before we moved in, and the previous owner did such a lousy repair job that I had to replace the replacement within a couple of years. The replacement gate fit fine and I did a good enough construction job that it doesn't sag, but the BigBox lumber I used to build it began to warp seemingly within minutes, causing a serious case of gaposis near the top. I decided that a set of eye bolts, some cable and a turnbuckle would straighten it out, so I returned to my local BigBox store where I'd bought the lumber (blue, not orange). There on the hardware aisle I found a National Zinc Anti-Sag Gate Kit (V-852) and brought it home.
The kit consists of a two zinc-plated steel support brackets that fit over opposite corners of the crosspieces plus screws to install them; several feet of 1/8-inch galvanized steel cable, plus a pair of galvanized steel rope clips (also called cable clamps); and a ¼" turnbuckle with hook-end bolts. The turnbuckle is aluminum and the bolts are zinc-plated steel.
Installation
1) Use the included screws to install one corner bracket at the hinge end of the top crosspiece and the other at the post end of the bottom horizontal. I did it the other way, since the gate didn't sag: it was warped outward at the top.
2) Open the turnbuckle as far as it will go and place a hook through the eye hole hole in the top bracket.
3) Make a smallish loop at one end of the cable and secure with a rope clamp. Place this loop on one of the hooks in the turnbuckle. If your turnbuckle has only one hook, thread the cable through the eye screw before you secure the loop.
4) Thread the other end of the cable through the eye-hole on the bottom bracket. Make a second loop and pull it as tight as possible, then secure it with another rope clamp.
5) Screw down the turnbuckle until the cable lifts the sag out of the gate or, as in my case, unwarps the warp.
The manufacturer says this kit can reach across a diagonal up to 7½ feet, which is about the size of a 5’ x 6’ gate. My gate is smaller (3’ x 6’) and I ended up with extra cable. If you have bolt cutters, you can trim this; otherwise it's fairly easy to ignore. The tools needed for installation were a cordless drill, a ratchet and 9/32” deep-well socket for the rope clips, and an adjustable wrench for the turnbuckle. In all it took about 30 minutes to install. One thing I didn't like about the kit is that the brackets are designed to fit crosspieces that are set on edge; mine are flat to match orientation of the fence rails. It's stayed secure for a couple of years; and the zinc-plated steel parts haven't shown any rust yet. In fact, I only recently tightened up the
turnbuckle to take out some fresh warp.
An anti-sag kit is an easy-to-install and economical solution for problem that's altogether too common. This or a similar kit is sold under several labels, such as the Stanley 76-0828 and the Ace Hardware 5299029. Some have an eye bolt instead of two hooks on the turnbuckle, but as long as the parts are zinc they're pretty much all the same.
Track Down an Electrical Circuit on a Breaker Panel
Remember the last time you did electrical work around the house? Maybe you installed a ceiling fan, put up a new security light, swapped in a dimmer switch for a toggle, or perhaps you tackled a more ambitious project like adding a new fixture. I can pretty well guarantee the first line in the instruction sheet said words like:
"Turn off the power to the circuit before starting."
Oh, sure. That's easy for the engineer who designed your new toy to say: he's probably posted a blueprint on the inside of the door of his breaker box; a tiny map showing the location of every fixture, switch and outlet in the house, everything carefully labeled with the number of its circuit breaker. If you're like everyone else, though, the breaker box is probably labeled with cryptic little notes like "mr bth ot," "dck lts," or "sara's bdrm" - and the only Sara you know is the intern at work. If you're really unlucky, the breaker isn't labeled at all.
So, how do you find the right breaker without having to reset every digital clock in the building? There are lots of ways...
• You could plug in a lamp on a long extension cord.
• You could plug in a radio and crank Katy Perry up to eleven, and wait for her to shut up.
• You could use a helper with a cell phone, asking him or her after every breaker you snap off, "Still on?"
I've been there, I've done that; and along the way learned that the breaker is always at the opposite end of the board from where I started. Think about it: Did you save the instruction book for resetting the clock on the stove?
Well, there's a far easier way to do this: use a circuit breaker finder, like the digital model from Klein Tools. This simple device will make short work of finding correct circuit breakers for (almost) any outlet or fixture in your house, and is so simple you don't need an assistant or a cell phones.
"Turn off the power to the circuit before starting."
Oh, sure. That's easy for the engineer who designed your new toy to say: he's probably posted a blueprint on the inside of the door of his breaker box; a tiny map showing the location of every fixture, switch and outlet in the house, everything carefully labeled with the number of its circuit breaker. If you're like everyone else, though, the breaker box is probably labeled with cryptic little notes like "mr bth ot," "dck lts," or "sara's bdrm" - and the only Sara you know is the intern at work. If you're really unlucky, the breaker isn't labeled at all.
So, how do you find the right breaker without having to reset every digital clock in the building? There are lots of ways...
• You could plug in a lamp on a long extension cord.
• You could plug in a radio and crank Katy Perry up to eleven, and wait for her to shut up.
• You could use a helper with a cell phone, asking him or her after every breaker you snap off, "Still on?"
I've been there, I've done that; and along the way learned that the breaker is always at the opposite end of the board from where I started. Think about it: Did you save the instruction book for resetting the clock on the stove?
Well, there's a far easier way to do this: use a circuit breaker finder, like the digital model from Klein Tools. This simple device will make short work of finding correct circuit breakers for (almost) any outlet or fixture in your house, and is so simple you don't need an assistant or a cell phones.
How it Works
There are a lot of these on the market, but here are the instructions for a Klein ET300. If you have a different model, the instructions WILL vary...
1) Breaker finders come in two parts. The first is a transmitter that plugs into a 110-volt outlet. If there's power to the circuit, an LED lights: note that the outlet has to be hot (power on) for the transmitter to work. Microcircuity inside the body pumps a signal into the circuit.
2) Take the receiver to the breaker box. Run the receiver down the entire stack of circuit breakers: this is a sort of "warm-up" step to condition the sensor. Ignore any flashing lights or beeps. It's important to position the receiver correctly: perpendicular to the panel with the power button pointing UP.
3) Make a second pass following the same pattern, with the receiver in the same position. The receiver - which operates on a 9-volt battery - detects the signal and verify the correct breaker by beeping and illuminating a green arrow. Once you've located and flipped the correct breaker, the transmitter stops working and you will not receive either the visual or audio signal - if you see or hear anything, you tripped the wrong breaker.
4) Head back to the transmitter. As a further safety precaution, the LED should be dark now that the circuit is dead.
Warnings
Long parallel runs in the wires for two circuits could induce false signals in the other circuit. Always verify that the power has been cut using a voltmeter or other means.
You'll need an adapter to use the transmitter on an incandescent light fixture. I use an ancient adapter that changes a light socket to a two-prong outlet.
To use the transmitter on a fluorescent fixture on bare wires, you'll need to fiddle with alligator clips.
Anyone who works with electricity will tell you, "Use a voltmeter or circuit tester to be absolutely sure that you found the right breaker!"
Final Notes
I've used a circuit breaker finder in four different houses, including one whose breaker box had no labels whatsoever. They're not foolproof: sometimes I've thrown the adjacent breaker instead of the correct one, especially when they're packed into the breaker box. It's still a helluva lot better than turning off power in half the house while you're on the hunt, though. This is one tool of which I am almost certain, "Try this: you'll like it!"
Summary
PLUS: Find a circuit breaker fast without an assistant.
MINUS: can still be fooled
WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: Anyone who ever went bonkers looking for the right circuit breaker will love one of these.
When and How to Test your Car's Thermostat
Most gasoline and diesel engines include a water-based cooling system to remove excess heat caused by combustion. A coolant circulating through the walls of the engine picks up heat and carries it into the fins of a radiator where moving air helps dissipate the heat.
Cooling systems are simple compared to engines. They include the water jacket, a network of passages though the engine block; the radiator and cap; a fan; a water pump; hoses and the thermostat. Though it's a mechanically simple device, the thermostat serves an important function, regulating the temperature of coolant and engine.
A thermostat sits across the opening where coolant enters the block. When the engine is cold, the thermostat closes off the opening to keep water isolated in the block. As the engine begins to generates heat. The thermostat remains closed until coolant inside the block reaches the operating temperature at which the engine performs its best. Then the thermostat opens to allow circulation of coolant from the remainder of the system. It opens wider as the coolant temperature increases: the more coolant that passes through the block and the radiator, the more effectively the system removes unwanted heat. When operating temperatures change, the thermostat can adjust to maintain the coolant's temperature within a narrow set range.
Cooling systems are simple compared to engines. They include the water jacket, a network of passages though the engine block; the radiator and cap; a fan; a water pump; hoses and the thermostat. Though it's a mechanically simple device, the thermostat serves an important function, regulating the temperature of coolant and engine.
A thermostat sits across the opening where coolant enters the block. When the engine is cold, the thermostat closes off the opening to keep water isolated in the block. As the engine begins to generates heat. The thermostat remains closed until coolant inside the block reaches the operating temperature at which the engine performs its best. Then the thermostat opens to allow circulation of coolant from the remainder of the system. It opens wider as the coolant temperature increases: the more coolant that passes through the block and the radiator, the more effectively the system removes unwanted heat. When operating temperatures change, the thermostat can adjust to maintain the coolant's temperature within a narrow set range.
How Thermostats Fail
When it reaches the end of its useful life, a thermostat usually sticks in the open position, allowing coolant to circulate through the system continually. When this happens, an engine is unlikely to reach its optimum operating temperature, which both increases wear and erodes fuel economy. In cold weather the heater, which is in most cars part of the cooling system, will function poorly or not work at all. More rarely, the thermostat will get stuck in its closed position. In this case, coolant in the system won’t circulate through the engine block, causing the engine to overheat.
How to Know Your Thermosat's Gone Wonky
If the vehicle has a temperature gauge, the needle should rest within the marked range while the engine is running and the vehicle is moving. If it goes above the range (hotter), the thermostat may be stuck closed. If it stops below the range (cooler), it is probably stuck open. The heater may not blow any hot air.
There might be steam coming from under the hood or an "idiot light” may suddenly illuminate on an instrument panels that has no temperature gauge. The “Check Engine” light may also come on; if you have access to a code reader you can diagnose the problem from the computer. If you suspect the thermostat is at fault, they are relatively easy to test.
Testing a Thermostat
1) Remove the thermostat: the procedure varies from vehicle to vehicle, but they are generally at the engine end of the top radiator hose.
2) Inspect the thermostat. If it is stuck in the open position, replace it.
3) If the thermostat is not stuck open, test it further.
4) Fill a pan with sufficient water to cover the thermostat. Place a thermometer in the water and place the pan on a heat source.
5) Slowly raise the temperature if the water. The thermostat should not change until the water reaches about 187°F (86°C), at which temperature it should start to open. It should be fully open at 195°F (90.6°C). Check the manufacturer's specifications for the gap created when it's completely open.
6) If the thermostat is still closed when the water starts boiling, it is definitely faulty and you must replace the thermostat and gasket. If it opens at too low a temperature, it must also be replaced.
Notes and Tips
• If you use a saucepan and a candy thermometer from your kitchen in the test, clean them thoroughly before using them to prepare food: the ethylene glycol found in coolant is poisonous.
• The 195-degree temperature is most common, but it's not a constant. The thermostat's operating temperature is usually stamped on its housing. If there's doubt, consult the vehicle’s shop manual online or at your library.
• Never run an engine without a thermostat, because the system's water pump is calibrated to the "bore" of the opening with the thermostat in place. If the opening to the block is not partially blocked by the housing, the coolant can move through the system too fast to allow heat transfer, and allow the engine to overheat.
• A thermostat can't be repaired; it must be replaced.
Thursday, 29 May 2014
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